Vancouver Wine Interviews
Marchese Piero Antinori -
I was introduced to the well dressed gentleman as Piero Antinori. Which almost seemed too informal, people used talk about meeting the famous wine consultant Emile Peynaud and not feeling comfortable addressing him by anything other than Professor Peynaud. I felt the same with Mr. Antinori. You'd be hard pressed to find one man who has done as much for the resurgence of Italian wine in the 20th century as Piero Antinori. From helping to shape Italian wine law, to acting as an ambassador for Italian wines to the rest of the world. "He goes by the brand, yet imagines he goes by the flavour" Mark Twain
I was extremely excited to get Antinori's first hand insight on his overseas ventures and investments outside of Italy. When I inquired as to the most exciting project currently in the works, he talked excitedly of 'Antica,' a project in Napa California owned exclusively by the Antinori brand and making limited release high quality Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon wines. 'Antica' stands for Antinori California. Antinori's have been involved in the winery for over fifteen years, taking sole ownership and control a year ago. The first publicly released vintage of 'Antica' was their 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, with a limited production of around 500 cases, and plans to continue expanding the brand moving forward.
Antinori's extreme nurturing and excitement for 'Antica' was most evident as he gleefully smiled the entire time we discussed the property; telling us he had just returned from four weeks onsite in Napa and has plans to revisit the vineyards in June. His love of wine is contagious, plus his hands on involvement and dedication to the highest quality wine production unmistakable.
With the world renowned Sangiovese based Tignanello IGT wines from Chianti Classico being one of the Antinori brands marquee exemplar, I was curious to hear firsthand Antinori's experimentation with the native Italian red grape variety Sangiovese in the new world. He spoke of first planting Sangiovese in California twenty-five years ago, with great anticipation, but unfortunately poor results in the wine. Antinori informs us that through extensive experimentation, they believe the key to Sangiovese's success in California is to plant at extremely specific vineyard sites and to allow the vines to reach a reputable maturity to provide complexity to the wine, all steps which will lead to quality Sangiovese production out of California. Look for Sangiovese based blends from 'Antica' in the future, which are sure to be excellent wines showcasing a new world spin on a classic Italian grape.
When asked about the evolution of wine marketing and the wines consumers are currently drinking, Antinori speaks to the importance of focusing on value driven wines. During cautious economic times the consumer is being thriftier with their wine choices. Also, the public wants early drinking wines for which Antinori recommends his families IGT wine Guado al Tasso from Bolgheri DOC; an exceptional bargain and a great wine to enjoy in its youth. Upon tasting the Guado al Tasso I get a mouthful of fresh mint and ripe cherry fruit, with hints of vanilla and cocoa, definitely drinking well.
Finally, we asked Antinori for his insight on the British Columbia wine industry and his thoughts on the wines he has tasted from the Okanagan Valley and other wine making pockets of B.C. He tells us, 'the region is young, but with great potential.' Further he commends our emerging local wine regions - 'the region is beautiful!' - high praise from such an iconic and revered wine expert.