Vancouver Wine Interviews
Owen Knowlton -
Owen has been at the helm of the wine program at West for the last 7 years, previous to that Owen cut his teeth working in resorts throughout the Rocky Mountains before deciding to move to Vancouver and challenge the independent restaurant scene.
Since Owen's time at West, the restaurant has received numerous accolades including; Wine Spectator's "Best of Award of Excellence 6 years running, Best Overall Wine list and Best BC wines by the glass in the Okanagan Wine festival.
The program at West does not focus on one wine region in particular, it is a combination of all the classic regions as well as many New world stables. With a wine BTG (By The Glass) program which switches every month. Special attention has been paid to half bottles at the restaurant, which Owen feels helps to create more food and wine pairing options for the diner.
Owen was also a contributor to the recently released West cookbook which he contributed to with wine-pairings for some of the classically influenced menu items that Executive Chef Warren Geraghty has included on the menu at West. Owen gives the reader a little insight into why he chose certain pairings and how they complement one another, leaving the reader to experiment with different pairings at home. West Cookbook can be found a my favorite source for books, Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks at 1740 West 2nd Avenue (half a block east of Burrard).
What general advice can you give about pairing food and wine?
- Drink wine you enjoy. It is great to keep an open mind, but if a book you read claimed that the best pairing with Indian food is medium sweet German Riesling and sweet wine is not your thing, then drink what you like.
How would you describe the wine program at the West?
- Our ultimate goal is to build an exciting and unique wine program to complement the creativity of our kitchen. The list is built on wines that offer value and quality with a diverse selection of rare boutique bottles and sommelier favorites.
For your own personal consumption, and entertaining at home, what wines do you always have on hand?
- With the endless amount of wine available to us I rarely drink the same wine twice. My cellar is a trip around the world, although I admit I always have a good supply of Oregon Pinot Noir and South Rhone on hand.
Do you have any under-the-radar wine suggestions?
- For something off the beaten track I recommend Domaine Tissot chardonnay "les graviers" 06 from the Jura. Wines from the Jura can be hard to find ,but if you like a big Meursault and don't what to pay the big prices I think you would like Tissot's chardonnay.
What is the hardest dish on the dinner menu at West to pair with wine, and what do you pair it with?
- Chef Warren's food is typically very wine friendly but there have been a couple dishes that proved to be a challenge. For instance broth soups taste great, but pairing liquid with liquid is odd. Although Sherry is a classic pairing with consommé, people rarely like the pairing so I use Champagne as it offers a contrast of texture.
What are some of the more unusual pairings you recommend at West?
- I like Pineau des Charentes with soft ripe cheeses. Pineau des Charentes is usually an aperitif but Château d' Orignac Pineau des Charentes is so concentrated and good I find it best after dinner.
What are your thoughts on the wines being made in BC?
- The quality of BC wine is all over the map. Some wineries offer great value and some are highly over priced. A good producer is the most important factor in finding a good BC wine in comparison to many other wine regions of the world where the viticulture area plays the major roll.
What is your dream bottle?
- 1989 Le Pin would be a treat.
What is your favorite wine region?
- Tough call. Bordeaux, Champagne, Priorat, Oregon, and Barolo are my favorites, but hard to pick one.
If you ever made a wine, what kind of wine would it be?
- Sparkling. I love my bubbles.