Vancouver Wine Interviews
Michael Mameli -
I had delayed the interview with Michael for 3 weeks longer than I planned. I wanted to wait until Dine Out Vancouver" ended. Dine out is a 3 course prix fixe menu that lasts 3 weeks and is done all over city to promote business in the slow season. While great for the city, it can be a hectic time to try and sit down with anyone working in the business. I find it a little too hectic myself to even go out and eat. Michael was quick to remind me of the merits of the 3 weeks and how successful Dine Out has been over the years. We talked about the fact Vancouver's restaurant scene was still doing well, we hadn't run into some of the economic troubles other restaurants in larger cities like New York and Las Vegas were having.
Michael has a long history in and around wine; growing up with uncles and relatives close to him who grew grapes gave him the opportunity to appreciate the hard work that went into each glass he pours. The family had vineyards in the Okanagan since the 70's when you could probably count on three fingers all the growers in the province.
Michael received his Sommelier designation through the Court of Master Sommeliers in London taking part in their grueling 5 day examination process which test students on service, essays, and a multitude of wine list Q & A. Michael has also taught wine courses at the renowned Dubrulle Culinary School in Vancouver. When I asked Michael any advice for the budding sommelier, he told me that getting into the vineyards and really becoming one with your surroundings was a great way to bring the theory found in books into reality.
Besides being constantly rated one of the best eateries in the city, Cin Cin also can be recognized as having an elite wine list that would impress even the most serious collector. The wine list consists of over 1000 labels with a large selection of Italian wines, in small and large format bottles. When you are one of the top restaurants in B.C., you also carry the top wines from B.C. which is demonstrated on Cin Cin's list.
What is your most memorable wine-related experience? Why?
My most memorable wine-related experience came during the first harvest I worked. I was eleven years old. We were in Italy at my family's vineyards. It was hard work, but what stands out is how much fun everyone had after the harvest. The entire town is in harvest mode and the entire 10 days we spent picking was highlighted by after work parties of music, food and celebration.
What traits or skills are required to be a successful sommelier?
One of the most important skills is to listen carefully and guide tactfully.
What are some of the more unusual pairings you recommend at Cin Cin?
Our tasting menu with wine pairings gives us many opportunities to explore. One of the most surprising was a wood oven roasted stuffed calamari. We found a number of whites that were wonderful. For fun we tried a Northern Italian pinot noir. The finish from the wood oven on the calamari ended up being amazing with the pinot noir.
What general advice can you give about pairing food and wine?
Not to get too carried away. At its most simple, try to complement the "weight" of the food with the wine. Good wine and good food is a great start. The actual time that food and wine are together is only a small part of the experience.
What are some of your favorite wine and food matches?
I am a big fan of traditional Italian cooking and wine. Rich flavors complimented by the fruit and racy acidity of Sangiovese based wines or Nebbiolo always work.
What bottle would you recommend to your best friend if he/she and their spouse came to Cin Cin for their anniversary?
Rose Champagne. Guaranteed to put a smile on your face and remember why you fell in love with each other.
What wine resources are must haves?
I like to fall back on notes I've taken over the years. For reference books Jancis Robinson is quite detailed (www.jancisrobinson.com).
What are your thoughts on the wines coming out of BC?
The last 10 years has seen great strides. Although limited in quantity, there are some very serious wines being made.
Please talk a little about your wines by the glass program?
Two areas of importance to us are Italy and the local wine industry. A variety of styles with emphasis on balance and complementing Chef François' Mediterranean influenced menu.
What is the hardest dish on the dinner menu at Cin Cin to pair with wine, and what do you pair it with?
Chef François develops his menu to be wine friendly. With the variety of wines available to us, there is never a 'difficult' dish, although you have to be a little more creative at times. With dishes that are more complex, my standby is to go with bubbles. Prosecco and Champagne refresh your palate quickly and avoids any over powering sensation.