Wine Book Reviews
Bordeaux/ Burgundy: A Vintage Rivalry - Jean Robert Pitte
In his book, Bordeaux/ Burgundy: A Vintage Rivalry, Jean Robert Pitte masterfully paints a picture of France's two most historic wine growing regions, both borne out of a desire to produce exceptional quality, terroir driven wines (terroir refers to the characteristic flavour imparted to a wine by the environment where it is created). Historically, this is where the similarities between the two regions cease, and Pitte intricately retraces the origins as well as discrepancies between these classic wine lands.
Pitte utilizes his academic background as a geographer to capture the origins of both esteemed wine regions, and provides a sometimes overly detailed description of the topographical and geographical differences separating the two areas. The beginnings of the two wine histories split, with Bordeaux emerging as an area of industrialization, capitalizing on easy access with Britain and Northern Europe, whereas Burgundy is a wine born out of rurality, and a true deep respectful understanding of the land.
Throughout the book, Pitte outlines the differences between the wines and regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy, with the overarching difference being that Burgundy is portrayed as a wine of the rural farmer, whereas Bordeaux is a wine of the city industrialist.
Where Pitte does the best job of capturing the life and spirit of Bordeaux and Burgundy, is when he is talking of the people who make the wines, making it possible for us to enjoy these unique and wonderfully individual wines. He tells captivating stories of Chateau Haut-Brion opening a tavern in seventeenth century London, Pontack's Head, after the family name, and serving their wines to future notables like Jonathan Swift, Daniel Defoe, and John Locke. My mouth watered as he recounts the wines from cellars of past royalty, and presents the reader with extravagant banquet menus from both Bordeaux and Burgundy that transport you to the table with the likes of Philipine de Rothschild, drinking 1996 Margaux, paired with chantrelles and veal. Now that's a pairing I can get on the same page with any day of the week!
He brings to life the boisterousness and joviality of the Burgundy winemakers working the fields in overalls, having unyielding appetites for food and wine, and singing lively songs. On the opposing end of the spectrum we see the winemakers in Bordeaux hosting tennis tournaments, walking through the vineyards in polo shirts and riding shorts, and celebrating their wines through black tie affairs hosted at their extravagant château's.
Bordeaux vs. Burgundy is by no means a light read, despite its rather brief one hundred and seventy six pages. Pitte definitely writes from the perspective of an academic, thoroughly referencing and outlining the soils, sub regions, and histories of both Bordeaux and Burgundy, and at times dragging on in his completeness. One only needs to note the thirty nine pages of footnotes and thirteen pages of bibliography to truly understand how thorough Pitte's pursuit and knowledge into these regions delves.
Although occasionally his academic style can be dry and tiresome, Pitte's undeniable love for wine, and the terroirs of both Burgundy and Bordeaux shines through unmistakably. He briefly tips his hat as a lover of the silky wines of Burgundy over the deep brooding wines of Bordeaux, as every wine lover tends to sit slightly to one side of the fence; though this never blinds his subjectivity. Ultimately, he concludes, and I concur, that both regions produce possibly the best terroir driven wines of the world, and it is the job of producers, those that cultivate the grapes, wine exporters, and wine lovers alike to bury the age old hatchet between the debates of Bordeaux vs. Burgundy, and begin to celebrate both regions for their exceptional wines, unique qualities, and individual terroirs.
A very worthwhile read that will enhance any wine lovers' knowledge. So uncork one of your classic 61' or 82' Bordeaux if luxury and recession affords, or more likely a generic bottle of 2005 Bourgogne AOC or Bordeaux AOC, and tuck in for a challenging, but extremely exciting, insightful and informative read. For a condensed synthesis of Pitte's book, look to Pitte's recap in the December 2008th issue of Decanter magazine available online at